Notre première journée au Portugal commence dès l'aurore à Marvao à une dizaine de kilomètres de la frontière espagnole. Ce petit village de 150 habitants situé sur un piton rocheux, offre un panorama exceptionnel. Nous avons pu assisté à un magnifique lever de soleil.
Marvao entouré de remparts, abrite en son sein, de magnifiques maisons collées les unes aux autres, coiffées de tuiles aux tons orangers, dont les murs sont d'un blanc immaculé et les portes lilliputiennes. Mais surtout, on y trouve un splendide château bien conservé surplombant toute la région.
Ce dernier date du XIIIème siècle. Du haut de ses murailles, le point de vue est époustouflant. A l'entrée de celui-ci, un minuscule escalier s'enfonce vers une pièce sombre et résonante: une énorme citerne voûtée encore pleine d'eau. Le fait que l'entrée du château soit gratuite m'a vraiment étonné vu la beauté des lieux.
Nous nous sommes ensuite dirigé vers un autre village médiéval non loin: Castelo de vide. Cette bourgade de 4 500 habitants possède un vieux quartier juif datant du XIIème siècle. Une ancienne synagogue reconvertie en musée se visite aujourd'hui. Les dédales de petites ruelles avec le linge séchant à l'extérieur participe à l'enchantement. De nombreuses personnes âgées, essentiellement des hommes, se retrouvent sur les places publiques pour discuter ou, assises sur un banc, pour observer les passants. On y ressent une douceur de vivre. De nombreux chats circulent dans les rues ou se réchauffent au soleil.
Le château qui s'y trouve, n'est pas exceptionnel. Il est dans un état de délabrement. Seuls le village en son enceinte encore habité et la vue sur Castelo de vide depuis sa tour méritent une attention particulière.
Avant de reprendre la route, on s'est arrêté dans une petite épicerie pour se ravitailler en fruits, légumes,ainsi qu'en saucisson et fromage locaux. Preuve de l'honnêteté des gens: la marchande nous a couru après : on avait oublié notre sac plein de provisions.
Nous sommes descendu ensuite vers le sud-ouest à Evora, une ville également à l'allure médiévale. Celle-ci fût une place celte avant l'arrivée des romains en 59 avant J-C. Elle connu son age d'or à partir du XIVème siècle, devenant un lieu de résidence pour la dynastie des Aviz. Après le XVI ème siècle, petit à petit, la cité perdit de son importance et, en 1808, les troupes napoléoniennes lui donnèrent le coup de grâce en pillant et massacrant les résistants.
Mais, c'est grâce à son déclin qu'Evora a pu conserver sa magnifique architecture. La veille ville inscrite au patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO n'a pas subi les transformations que le développement économique aurait inévitablement opérées.
Nous avons pu donc y admirer les remparts de la ville, un immense aqueduc, les vestiges d'un temple romain, un petit palais, une cathédrale gigantesque ainsi que les restes de thermes romains cachés à l'intérieur de la mairie.
A une quinzaine de kilomètres d'Evora, perdus dans la campagne, se trouvent des monuments préhistoriques, des cromlechs. Ces cercles de pierres faisaient office certainement de lieux de culte. On dénombre près de 95 monolithes de granit de forme arrondie. Un peu plus loin, un menhir haut de 4 mètres se dresse vers le ciel. Mais, ce site m'a peu emballé. Malheureusement, nous y sommes arrivés à la tombée de la nuit, donc nous n'avons pas pu totalement profité des champs à perte de vue de chênes-lièges sur la route. Ces arbres prolifèrent dans la région. On les retrouve souvent ôtés de leur écorce. Le liège, ici, ne sert pas uniquement à bouchonner les bouteilles de Porto. En effet, on le retrouve dans les boutiques de souvenir sous forme de sacs, chaussures, stylos, étuis... C'est assez amusant!
Nous avons ensuite filé à Lisbonne pour y passer la nuit...
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