Nous reprenons la route pour nous diriger vers le nord, non loin de la ville de Nagano, célèbre pour y avoir accueilli les Jeux Olympiques d’hiver en 1998.
Cette destination est à l’origine de mon intérêt pour les alpes japonaises. Depuis, très longtemps, j’ai entendu parler de singes se baignant dans des sources d’eau chaude au Japon. J’ai toujours voulu y aller. Et c’est chose faite maintenant.
Cette localité se nomme Yudanaka. Elle a la particularité de posséder un onsen comme nul part ailleurs: ses usagers ne sont autre que des macaques japonais.
Ce parc, Jigokudani ou “la vallée de l’enfer” en français, tire son nom des vapeurs des eaux chaudes naturelles donnant une image d’une vallée où règne la chaleur.
Le bain central du parc, construit par l’homme, attire une foule de visiteurs venue observer les singes se baignant toute l’année. La meilleure période est incontestablement l’hiver, où les lieux recouvert de neige ajoutent paraît-il une dimension particulière. De plus, les singes se prélassent alors naturellement dans les bains pour se réchauffer. Malheureusement, nous sommes en été. Du coup, les employés du parc les attirent avec de la nourriture afin de les obliger à se tremper. Le côté artificiel m’a assez déçu. Il faudra que je revienne donc en hiver.
Par contre, l’observation des primates en liberté est très plaisante. Il faut juste obéir à trois règles pour éviter un drame :
ne pas leur donner à manger, ne pas les toucher, et ne pas soutenir leur regard. En réalité, ils se montrent très calme, et déambulent sans se soucier de leurs photographes venus en masse.
Ma vieille obsession assouvie (même si elle ne l’est réellement qu’à moitié), nous poursuivons et terminons notre périple dans les alpes japonaises à Karuizawa.
Nous décidons d’emprunter une petite route serpentant dans les montagnes. Suite à une multitude de lacets, les paysages tant espérés de haute voltige commencent à se dessiner. Les pauses photos se multiplient pour immortaliser la beauté des lieux.
Avant d’atteindre le centre de Karuizawa, nous nous arrêtons à Shiraito no taki. Ces chutes d’eau nichées dans un écrin de verdure offrent un cadre rafraîchissant et agréable surtout par
cette chaleur d’été. La cascade n’est pas exceptionnelle de par sa hauteur (3 mètres) mais de par sa largeur (70 mètres). Sa forme en arc de cercle donne une impression d’amphithéâtre et accentue le côté spectaculaire des lieux. L’eau qui jaillit de la terre sous nos yeux, provient du volcan Asama. Elle met six ans à sortir des nappes phréatiques !
Après cette halte de quelques dizaines de minutes, nous poursuivons notre route vers Karuizawa.
Cette jolie cité de 20 000 habitants est la principale destination d’été de la bourgeoisie Tokyoïte. En 1957, Akihito, l’actuel empereur du Japon et fils du célèbre Hirohito, y rencontra sa future femme, l’impératrice Michiko, sur un court de tennis. Ce
véritable conte de fées pour les japonais donna une réputation de havre romantique à la ville.
Elle entraîna ici poètes, artistes, écrivains, membres de la noblesse ou de richissimes propriétaires. On peut y pratiquer toutes les activités préférées de la jetset comme le golf,
l’équitation, le tennis.
De plus, cette ville prospère est à l’affût des dernières innovations en matière de mode. Toutes les plus grandes maisons de couture de Ginza y ont implanté leur succursale.
Le vieux Karuizawa, une rue bordée de boutiques de mode, de cafés et de galeries, mérite un détour. En sortant de l’axe
principal, on se retrouve sur des chemins recouverts de mousse entourés d’immenses arbres. Il est aisé de comprendre pourquoi la réputation de ville romantique perdure.
Dans ces boulevards historiques, on trouve également une originale chapelle en bois dédiée au missionnaire britannique Alexandre Shaw. Ce dernier fut le premier à manifester de l’intérêt pour cette région en 1886. La qualité de ses brouillards
lui rappela son pays natal.
Non loin de ce vieux quartier, un grand outlet charme tous les inconditionnels du shopping. De nombreuses grandes marques y figurent. Trois magasins dédiés à l’univers du chien m’a particulièrement amusé. On y trouve des jouets, des sacs, des poussettes, des habits et même des kimonos pour ces petits compagnons. D’ailleurs, à Karuizawa, le nombre de japonais
promenant leur toutou est surprenant. Et ils s’en occupent excessivement bien : toilettés avec une coupe souvent originale, habillés avec parfois des pantoufles, chariot pour les transporter...
Parmi les autres attraits de cette ville, figure la beauté de sa nature sauvage. Outre la profusion d’oiseaux multicolores plus beaux les uns que les autres ( on compte 60 à 80 espèces), le mont Asama, l’un des volcans les plus actifs du Japon, domine majestueusement sur les plaines environnantes.
En suivant les conseils de l’office du tourisme, nous nous sommes rendus à un hôtel réputé pour avoir une belle vue sur cette montagne sacrée. Mais, encore une fois, les nuages nous ont joué de vilains tours. Nous nous sommes consolés avec la beauté des différentes fleurs du magnifique jardin de l’hébergement.
Malheureusement, notre périple dans les alpes japonaises prend fin à Karuizawa. Mais, il nous reste encore quelques nuits au Japon, l’occasion de découvrir le village de Nikko. L’aventure continue...
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